so now that i've been paid, a real load has been lifted from my mind. some of you have expressed genuine concern for my sanity, and apart from the gurgly feeling in my gut about not getting paid, things are alright.
i realized that with all my bitching, party stories and assertions of western superiority, i haven't even said a word about andong. and that is truly a crime.
andong is about the size of vernon, but with a population of 120,000. the city is actualy alot like vernon, kind of in a valley but with a big river running through it. there's a whole bunch of historical sites around here, old restored villages that are from as early as the 1300s. really cool.
if you have zero interest in my synthesis of personal experience and political studies 100, stop reading here and start re-reading at the next dotted line.
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korea in general is polar opposite to canada. it's very confucian, and from my understanding, confucianism dictates a top-down power structure with an infallible male monarch at the top, and the relationships between individuals are governed upon lines of age and gender, with older, male people being of superior rank to younger and female people. therefore, if you were to draw some chart with the benevolent dictator at the very top, lower ranks would cascade down in a series of triangles. you do not question your rank, and you do exactly what you're told by the higher rank. it would be a good system if the people in higher ranks weren't perenially full of shit. people in power tend to be in most cases.
confucian countries - china, korea, taiwan basically. singapore too.
china? a crazy place with more problems than i could even hope to comprehend. fascinating, but if someone in power there sneezes or farts, 100,000 people die. i think it's why their switch to communism was so brutal - chairman mao as supreme leader of a zillion people with centuries of confucian baggage - only with rhetoric of equality for all and destruction of the bourgeois class... i think marx and engels had a decidedly more peaceful transfer of power in mind.
taiwan? polluted as shit. korea? polluted as shit, a bit xenophobic, and corruption runs absolutely rampant in the business and government communities. i've been here for a month and the cover stories of the korean times have EVERY DAY, i shit you not, had something about a government, NGO or big business official resigning. cash grabs, payoffs... i think gordon campbell should get a job here.
the reason for this is, in my understanding, the zaibatsu;
http://www.bartleby.com/65/za/zaibatsu.html
zaibatsus were formerly monied gentry or some shit like that... then during the rebuilding of korea and japan after their respective war experiences, the zaibatsus became somewhat integrated into the government. government and big business operate here in a way that could be thought of as conflict of interest back home - they truly massage each other, and it is acceptable. government promotes and actively manipulates big business to stimulate the economy - and make rich dudes richer. trickle-down economics, confucian style.
i heard a story about there being a holiday in japan - and it sounds way too silly to be true, but it would make sense with a sort of zaibatsu relationship in place - but on this holiday, everyone puts their old (1 year old, it's a yearly event) stereo/AV gear out on their doorstep and gets a subsidy to buy new stereo/AV gear. the girl i heard talking about it said her friend, who was teaching in japan at the time, just walked down the street picking up stereo gear that was still totally useable, destined for the garbage dump. free shit. recycling never crossed anyone's mind and as todd flintstone http://todd.digiplebes.com says, japan has the highest per capita garbage incinerators in the world. could be part of the reason asia has a "brown cloud" over it. it sure as hell ain't my farts though i try.
from what i can see, korea has a similar relationship as japan's; the major zaibatsu-style corporations - and there's really only about 10 corporations in korea that have any great weight - are samsung, hyundai, lotte, and LG. did you know samsung made cars? i didn't. it's crazy. i have seen a grand total of two non-korean cars here, which leads me to believe that there is an insane import duty on them - monster even told me it costs about 120,000 to buy an audi A6 here, i believe they're about 40,000 back home. john? am i right? anyways, it's also weird, there's a million cars here, and i've never seen one more than ten years old. i've seen one hyundai pony, in seoul. remember them? this could be for two reasons - somewhat of a zaibatsu in place, with koreans being either helped or urged to buy new cars to promote the economy, or perhaps, since the economy here was in the absolute shitter about 10 years ago, maybe the idea of everyone having a car is rather recent.
it's a weird transition for me, coming from vancouver where you can't fart without hitting someone who rants about corporate rule and big business being in the pocket of government and/or vice versa. corporations here are omnipresent, and no-one bats an eyelash. of course - it's confucian. don't question ANYTHING, just shut up and work and die. oh and be sure to get married while you're at it.
my friend mr. lee lives in a samsung apartment block. samsung owns and manages apartments, as does hyundai and they ARE ALL IDENTICAL. there is very little architectural difference in korea at all, and it's pretty surreal. i live in a hyundai apartment. i used to think it was ugly but for some reason the utilitarian quality of it is growing on me a little. just a little though.
a korean's socialization is guided by a few things. one is a real fear that korea is going to be taken over - either by the communists, the USA, Japan, or foreign english teachers. imagine that... a bunch of alcoholics staging a coup... but seriously, there's that sort of xenophobia, also confucianism, a serious national pride - very few koreans seem to think leaving korea is a good idea, even on holiday - and a sense that corporations have rebuilt the country after the war and they are the reason for any comfort koreans have now.
i think this is the reason steve tried to talk me out of intervening when that moron was slapping his girlfriend; it's likely i would have looked a lot like douglas macarthur to the guy and if i implored him to not hit his girl all he would have heard was "YOU COMMIE JAP CHINAMEN... MAKE BIGGER CARS, STOP EATING ALL THAT RICE AND MAKE YOURSELVES SOME HAMBURGER SANDWICHES!!! WE SHOULD HAVE NUKED YOU IN 'NAM!!!". so it's a good thing i held back i suppose.
food is important here - after years and years of near famine in many places, koreans have it pretty good, but still, the second thing anyone says to you after "hello" is "have you eaten?" and it is of grave concern to them. as is marriage. people find out i'm 32 and say "oh my god, are you married yet?!?" because if you hit 30 and you're unmarried, you are a pitiable screwup who is either bankrupt, socially inept or gay. but nobody's gay here. even the gay people i think.
i try to explain "i'm not married because bitches is mental" but they don't understand.
i think this should be the end of the lecture. i'm probably only half right on a lot of it anyways.
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food here is amazing. here's a synopsis:
danjiang - korean miso soup. it has a similar taste to japanese miso but it's less finely crushed so the end result is a salty lentil soup-type mixture, usually with peppers, dooboo (tofu), onions, and these really awesome korean wild greens that are kinda like fiddleheads.
chop-cheh - a noodle dish, usually with pork but i try my hardest to nix that. it's fried in sesame oil.
go din ah - (sp?) salted mackerel. an andong specialty, they're a major exporter of godinah. usually barbecued or oven broiled. so salty, so tasty.
and bibimbab (rice bowl) and soondooboo (soft tofu stew) are staples. it's the wild greens that make everything so damn good.
beer? hite, OB and cass. hite has a stout that is like vancouver island hermann's dark lager, otherwise korean beers are usually passable asian lagers. OB is my fave, it's kinda german tasting. cass is the most common draft, and it's ok tasting but it comes with massive hangovers installed and serviced, no matter how much you drink.
stay away from soju and dongdong ju, it makes you feel like a wizard but the next day you're reduced to something akin to smeagol... seriously heinous shit.
that's about it. i think i just wanted to let everyone know that, despite my stress of late, i am having a really good time here. i wanted to have at least one positive-sounding blog update...
and dave alexandre... ph.d. student or no, you are not smart. BRUCE ALMIGHTY is the SHIT! of course, god doesn't look like the dude from the shawshank redemption, HE LOOKS LIKE GANDALF! I CAN PROVE IT! so it does have that one flaw. and the sappy god and romance shit at the end. plus jennifer anus-town is an annoying bong-voiced nerd. but BRUCE ALMIGHTY IS THE SHIT!!!
can you tell that with an extreme lack of movie choices that my taste is adapting in a rather negative way?